Kimono style

Simplicity 4020 Kimono Top, View D. This pattern calls for stretch knits only. Fabrics recommended: Lightweight double knit, stretch velvet, two way stretch novelty knit fabrics, stretch lace.



I used stashed fabric purchased from EOS called Japanese Geisha print triple mesh. I had about 1 1/4'' yards and it was fun squeezing out this top plus a pair of panties.

I traced this off in straight size 18. The muslin went well but I should have worn it out once or twice to be sure.

Once I started cutting and assembling this fabric, I realized it would have been a nicer outcome had I done a FBA. It is okay as it is but a bit more room would have been better.

In addition, I should have added length to the hem. Definitely will add about 2'' next time.

I think this is an easy pattern. All three styles are flattering but this one is my favorite. I have view C of this pattern in mind for summer.

Kwik Sew 2908. Misses Panties designed for stretch knits only. Fabrics recommended: Lightweight cotton Lycra®, stretch lace, sheer Lycra®, nylon Lycra®. The pair shown is triple mesh.


This is the only undergarment pattern I've tried so far and it offers a good fit. I traced off the pattern and found the crotch piece a bit large as other reviewers had reported. Once that issue was altered, the first few pairs were sewn and tested with various lace and elastics.

Of course, I won't show you any of the test pairs because they are ugly. We're talking brown knit with turquoise trim and my sewing was wonky and scary to behold. Let's just say it took me quite a few pairs before I felt comfortable showing these to the world!

I'm in the habit of cutting out some new panties each time I cut a new top. Plus, I've found old t-shirts come in handy, so those get cut up and saved for later as well. One day, when I've accumulated seven or eight cut out pairs, I'll sew them up and start the process over again!

Sleeveless Wrap Top

BWOF 01/2008 116 -Wrap top. Tie-bands wrap twice around the waist. This pattern calls for two-way stretch jersey knits only.


I used a cut of .99 onionskin that I purchased from Fabric Mart a few seasons ago. It was meant to be a muslin throw away fabric but it is charming. It is perfect for this pattern.

While tracing, I lengthened the tie band extension pattern piece 7'' and experimented with multi-sizing. This top is 40 in the neck and shoulders, tapering to 44 at the bust and sides. No FBA!

I lined up the extension with the bodice piece to see if I would be able to cut in one piece. Thank goodness it was possible because I really wanted to avoid a piecing seam. The bodice plus extension took up the entire width of my cutting table.

I followed Sandra Betzina's advice in Power Sewing and stabilized the neckline edge with 1/4'' wide cut selvage, then turned down and top-stitched with a double stretch needle.

I turned a corner with the double needle for the first time and was quite proud of myself! It looked terrible on the inside, of course, so I picked it out and tried again. I love trying new things.




Then this top hung out on Cassidy for a week or so while I debated turning it into a sleeveless top. My "SWAP that isn't a SWAP but actually a wardrobe now" is comprised of short sleeve and sleeveless tops so why not this one as well? Long sleeves seemed out of place in this grouping. Darn. I had already cut the sleeves so the sleeves would be wasted. But then, I wasn't sure if I would ruin my cute top.

In the end, I tired of debating myself and decided the high armsyce was going to work fine and to just do it already. I stabilized the armsyce using selvage strips, turned down and top-stitched and it looked fine. I sure can over-analyse with the best of 'em!

SWAP version 3

I am sad to find out that BWOF doesn't qualify for the wardrobe portion of the Timmel SWAP. But that's OK... here is yet another revision!

It is actually easier on me to change out the pants, shorts and skirt for McCall's wardrobe 5397. There aren't any cute details like topstitching or pockets. I kinda feel like I'm cheating!

I did leave the BWOF jacket and wrap, of course. That jacket is just the cutest.

Thank you for all the help tonight!! I hadn't even made it over to the rule list yet and had my answer within a short time of posting here. That is amazing! :)

I heart BWOF

I am finally starting on my Spring SWAP. This is my first revision and I am delighted to share it with you.

I have changed the wardrobe pieces and made a few other pattern changes. Hopefully using three pieces from the same section in January 2008 BWOF, City Styles, will satisfy the Timmel SWAP wardrobe requirement. I am thinking I'll sew the dress as well.

Speaking of, I still haven't made a purchase from Julie and that means my storyboard might change again. I would rather use dark brown denim instead of dark wash for this SWAP on the HP trousers so maybe I'll find something at Timmel. I need some of their coral knit and hope it isn't sold out.

I *love* the January edition of BWOF! I'm working on the wrap as we speak and should post my review very soon.

Hope you have a great week!

BWOF -January 2008

I am so inspired by all of the reviews on PatternReview.com for various garments made from the Burda World of Fashion January 2008 issue. Take a peek at the gallery!

I found a copy on eBay and received it last week. I think I will change my SWAP to include the wrap knit top and possibly one pair of pants. Eventually.

I'm not so hot on the SWAP sewing right now. I've had too many things going on all at once. A dead animal (rat) in the wall... fixed that problem promptly at the beginning of the month but have now been trying to get the resultant and unexpected fly problem finalized.

Last August, little beetles decided they liked the flour in my kitchen but I killed them once I figured out where they were coming from. Somehow they came back this month to live in my raspberry tea but I now tracked 'em down and hoovered the kitchen this past weekend. Unfortunately, the little fliers that they are found my wool pants (previously mentioned Weekender chinos all cut out and abandonded but pulled out again to look over the zipper) and now I must darn some little holes. Thank goodness they don't like polyester as I had 6 yards of Gorgeous Fabric on the sewing table as well as they are a perfect match. Trying to decide what to make.

Needless to say I am thankful my entire stash is safely far away from all this activity. I *will* proceed to FREAK OUT if I find even one little flier anywhere near the beloved stash. Wish me luck I got them all... every last one of them!

Yes, done with griping. Back to where I started with this post.

I am inspired by Jan BWOF reviews, but tired from battling intruders. I might trace off the artist top to make myself feel better even though it doesn't work with my SWAP. It is so pretty!

I bought a Mozart CD of piano sonatas to sooth my frazzled nerves! I've been looking for this CD for YEARS and finally it turned up on eBay. Yay for me!!!

Mozart: The Complete Piano Sonatas Vol. 2 - Entremont

Undercollar pattern piece

Wow! I think this will help me solve the problem I'm having on the mohair coat collar. Undercollars Part One - Cut by The Secret Pocket

The major problem is the under collar pattern piece. The under collar is cut from the same pattern piece as the collar. Unfortunately, I ran out of mohair. Not knowing what to substitute I cut an under collar out of a piece of fleece.



This doesn't seem "right" but I've been unsure as to why. Turn of cloth? The mohair is very textural yet soft as is the fleece. This is a nice quality fleece from a designer bolt sale. Perhaps if I trim away a bit then underline the fleece with silk organza it will work.

Here is a pic of the mohair. The lining and fleece are both darker than the mohair and match colorwise. Slate gray. Do you think I can get away with the fleece or should I use something with a woven texture? Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Multisizing musings

I'm stuck on a number of issues on my projects. I'm having trouble with the mohair coat collar, zipper construction on the chinos (even though I've done it before... I'm just not figuring it out this time) and I looked at the dress but just don't know what to do. Plus I haven't found the reader card so I'll replace it soon. I'm somewhat discouraged so I'm taking a break.

I did run across an interesting topic on PR regarding tracing multisizes. For example, one PR member traces a 10 at the shoulders then grades to a 14 at the armhole notch instead of doing a FBA.

I think I went about tracing a few BWOF patterns incorrectly this month. I traced size 40 shoulders and graded to 44 at the sides. I'll go back and retrace to grade at the armhole notch instead.

This is probably the best way to approach another round of V8151 as well.

View A is too big in size E. I'll try tracing C in shoulders and back, E at armhole notch, then back to C at sides. Size E sleeves are perfect except they need 3/4'' removed from the sleeve cap.

View B is perfect in shoulders in size D, back is good in size D. I can't get the FBA right (it is too high) so maybe just moving it would work although I am tempted to remove the dart and forget about it all together. Oh yeah, the sleeves are snug in size D.

Finishing UFOs

Today I decided to revisit a few UFOs sitting in my sewing area.

First, there is the mohair coat which only needs the collar attached and hemming. I'll write this one up first because I've already taken a bunch of photos of the underlining technique I used. It will be a nice coat if I figure out the collar.

Next, a pair of HotPatterns Weekender Bootcut Chinos which are already cut out. I need to figure out the fly again. It is in pieces and I can't remember how I assembled it the first time. Must have followed along with some Vogue instructions, I'll pull a few patterns and hopefully I'll be on the right track.

Last, a yellow silk dress with white underlining is all cut out and needing attention. I traced size 16 and cut it completely out, fashion fabric and underlining but shortly after figured out it was going to be too big. I might be able to alter the pattern pieces and save it now. We'll see!

And with that, a new round of sewing begins!

Things happen in 3s

Woo Hoo! Where are you little mojo??
This has been a week of one misfortune after another. Get ready for my oh so very sad boo hoo story.

I am concentrating on pulling together some winter appropriate basics because I am soooo in need of clothing. I traced off Vogue 8151 in size E (both views) and proceeded to cut into the fabric I received from Ann. I had correctly guessed when her 1000th order would come in through Gorgeous Fabrics and got to go shopping! Woo!! I've never won anything in my life! This red cotton lycra knit is so easy to work with for a single knit and it is the perfect weight. I love it! I bought some more in charcoal gray and tan last week. :)

Anyhow, I wanted this top for the holidays but it didn't happen. Better late than never! I'm doing it now before I start on SWAP sewing.

Needless to say size E was way too big and I spent a lot of time saving it. I posted a rant on PR and Betty calmed me down (thanks Betty!) I really wanted to show you the cuteness of it but when I went to look for the camera the flash card was missing.

Went to look for the flash card and realized it must be in the reader... but the reader was gone and I have a vague recollection of putting it "somewhere safe" when I decided to actually file paperwork last week. NOOOOO!

Okay. Onto basic black pants in ponte knit from Joann Fabrics.

I'm composed again.

Traced off Vogue 2989 and DEAR GOODNESS but these pants are drafted all wrong for me. There is too much extra fabric under my belly and not enough to cover my backside. Went back to the drafting table to put togther a waistband and somehow save these pants. Whew! Nowhere perfect but wearable until I try again.

So, tonight I was all happy with myself for saving said garments. I was all strutting my stuff, feeling like maybe this is what a sweat suit alternative should feel like, when out of the blue I decided to bend down and, yes, the pants decided to completely ripout through the back seam. NOOOOOO!!!

Apparently you can't do a narrow 4 thread overlock with wooly nylon in the lower looper as Sandra Betzina recommends... at least you can't on the butt part if you are using ponte knit. That stitch application is too darn dense and causes a weak seam. Note to self. Bit late there.

Things happen in 3s... so I'm done with the bad luck at least. Right? For the entire year. Right?

I wish I had a margarita about now. If the card reader would turn up, well, that would be good too.

2008 Spring SWAP Storyboard