Undercollar pattern piece
Wow! I think this will help me solve the problem I'm having on the mohair coat collar. Undercollars Part One - Cut by The Secret Pocket
The major problem is the under collar pattern piece. The under collar is cut from the same pattern piece as the collar. Unfortunately, I ran out of mohair. Not knowing what to substitute I cut an under collar out of a piece of fleece. This doesn't seem "right" but I've been unsure as to why. Turn of cloth? The mohair is very textural yet soft as is the fleece. This is a nice quality fleece from a designer bolt sale. Perhaps if I trim away a bit then underline the fleece with silk organza it will work.
Here is a pic of the mohair. The lining and fleece are both darker than the mohair and match colorwise. Slate gray. Do you think I can get away with the fleece or should I use something with a woven texture? Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Labels: Butterick_4865
posted by Leora Louise at
8:41 AM
3 Comments:
I studied tailoring at FIT. Here is what Prof Cabrera told us. We were to use a sort of flat wool almost felted flannel for the undercollar. Look at men's suits and high quality women's suits and you will see the undercollar is not always the same material as the suit itself. Of course you must allow for turn of cloth, so the undercollar must be smaller than the upper collar. This is a fault of the pattern, so you will need to adjust it, by 1/8 to 1/4 inch or so. The undercollar should be cut bias. The interfacing for the back collar should be cut on the bias and allowance should be made for the directional nature of the bias. That is, it sags more in one direction than the other. So, bias interfacing needs to be zigzag seamed down the center back with the bias grains opposite in each direction. This is easier to show than explain, but you want the same degree of stretch on each side. Sometimes, you will see that this has been done with the upper collar, particulary on striped suits. Think about the direction you would want stripes to go and you will get the idea.
Alternatively, and this would work well with mohair, you could apply interfacing to the upper collar and turn in the outer seam allowances. Put your coat or jacket collar together, front and back and then apply the felted undercollar, cut on the bias, by hand with fell stitches, so that it sits 1/8 inch inside the upper collar. My opinion is that this would be the best method for working with mohair. This way you do not have a bulky seam allowance on the back collar. I have several Ralph Lauren suits where the collar is done this way. They are older suits with a fair amount of handwork.
The course I took was a high end hand tailoring course. You would probably have to go to Saville Row to see any of these techniques in use.
That said it does create a nice roll of collar and you are not out of order in using a different fabric for the undercollar.
By
Pamela, at 10:31 PM
wow, excellent information from Pamela.
I thought I had a photo of an undercollar as she's describing - but I can't find one uploaded into my flickr, so I went looking. MSUcares has a tiny little diagram about 2/3 way down page that shows this, if you know what you're looking at.
Pamela, are you on PR or Stitchers Guild?
By
Marji, at 6:53 AM
Yes, I agree. Excellent information, Thank You Pamela! I am turning your instructions over in my mind (typical for me) before I continue. I need to recut under collar pieces on bias and adjust the size then decide which way to proceed.
By
Leora Louise, at 4:13 PM
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