These Chinos are hot

I finished up my first pair of HotPatterns Weekender Bootcut Chinos

I traced a straight 14 on Thursday, cut fabric Friday and constructed on Saturday. Oh, and didn't make any modifications but got a perfect fit.

I used navy cotton with a barely perceptible stripe (No stretch) from one of my Fabric Mart bundles. I was worried about sewing the pattern with non-stretch fabric on the first go around. In the end, I figured that is the way to go to get a true idea of the cut and fit. I've since ordered a gorgeous Tahari wool suiting remnant from Textile Studios which has no stretch and I'm eagerly checking my mailbox daily. WOO HOO! I couldn't resist.

I also have some black tencel lycra from Textile Studios in my stash and might give it a go just to see how the stretch differs.

I didn't bother to measure the yardage before cutting but I think I used around 1.75 yards. I could figure it out if I were to lay the pattern out to see. But, eh, I'm lazy tonight.

I love this pant. More to come once I get my camera to cooperate because I have to show you the crotch curve. I've never seen anything like it!

Chisel those buttonholes

The good way to tell if a shirt is homemade is to checkout the buttonholes, or so I hear.

I read somewhere recently that you can buy a special tool to cut a clean buttonhole (I should keep better track of my sources since now I don't know where I read that) and avoid that frayed homemade look. Sounded good to me so I set off to Joann's to find one. Of course, no special buttonhole cutter could be found so I left empty handed.

On my way home, it occurred to me that I might have the right tool already. Why didn't I think of it before? I had purchased a Craftool 1-Prong Chisel 3/32" from Tandy Leather last year and added it to my ever growing (and prized) tool collection. I decided to pull it out and give it a shot.

I dabbed fray check inside the buttonholes and let them dry per a sewing tip I read on Pattern Review.

It took two passes with the chisel but made nice, clean buttonholes!

Tagged

My fellow sewa and celebrity voice of PR, MaryT, tagged me! I found out tonight as I chanced a visit to her lovely blog. Thanks, Mary. I enjoyed reading more about you, The SouthernSewa, and I agree this is a great way to network.

The rules:
1) someone tags you,
2) you post five things about yourself that you haven’t already mentioned on your blog,
3) you tag 5 people you’d like to know more about

1) I was the oldest of two and raised by a single mom. She passed away 4.5 years ago from leukemia after the transplant didn't work. I still want to pick up the phone and call her everytime something goes right or wrong in life. When she passed, I asked God for a sign that she is ok and a trumpet soloist played "Exodus" at church the following Sunday. She always played that piece on the piano I now own. A pivotal moment in my life! Oh, yeah, she would break out in a sweat over her upper lip if she ever ate chocolate so I hope she is enjoying all the chocolate she wants in heaven! I Love You Nonny.

2) I took a computer programming class in the 8th grade and LOVED it. It wasn't cool though, and I was the only girl who wanted to know more. I buried that deep down and didn't realize it was my thing until college. I went for cheerleading and fashion in high school but wish that I had studied computers instead. How much further ahead would I be now?

3) When I was in college I would stock my shelves with beans to make it look full. All kinds of beans! I got over that and have varied my shopping habits but I sure know how to pull together all kinds of soups, stews and salads that involve beans.

4) I had big hair in the 80's. Now I wear my hair straight and flat and can't stand it when it touches my face. I hate to have anything touch my face. But then again, I would hate to go back to my high school hairstyle, so whatcha gonna do?

5) I am a single mom to 2 wonderful boys and that's okay. I haven't found the right guy yet, but if you know him please send him my way. He should be optimistic, cultured, accomplished, thoughtful, reliable, forward thinking, a conversationalist, and symphony ready. I actually had a guy just like this once and lost him. No... make that twice. Stupid girl am I. Maybe there is only one out there that fits this description but you never know :)

Now I get to think up 5 bloggin friends. Let's see...this is hard because it looks like everyone's been tagged already and some people twice. So, I'm tagging everyone who's reading this entry. Name 3-5 things about yourself!

Mozart's Gran Partita

For the love of...

The Serenade No. 10 in B-flat Major KV361, popularly known as Mozart's Gran Partita, is charming and supremely beautiful yet interwoven with a sweet, melancholic voice. Everytime I listen to the Adagio (the third movement -- listen) I am alternately moved to tears then filled to the top with joy.

I had to know the meaning behind the serenade, who it was written for and why was it written with such a sad voice? What is the voice saying? Who is the object of desire?

A quick search uncovered various opinions. Some sources claim Mozart wrote it for his wedding to Constanze, some say it was written earlier. It is agreed he wrote it neatly, in that he took great care while composing and didn't scribble it down quickly as was often his way. I am left with the impression his wedding was a major event for him.

I have listened to the Adagio endless times as I love it so much. I've often imagined it to express unrequited love. Sometimes the second voice is a tease. By the time the movement wraps up the yearning voice seems to be either resolved to accept loneliness and singledom. Or, the lover has returned and they are swept away. I go back and forth between my musings. I'm racy that way.

On the page it looked nothing. The beginning simple, almost comic. Just a pulse - bassoons and basset horns - like a rusty squeezebox. Then suddenly - high above it - an oboe, a single note, hanging there unwavering, till a clarinet took over and sweetened it into a phrase of such delight! This was no composition by a performing monkey! This was a music I'd never heard. Filled with such longing, such unfulfillable longing, it had me trembling. It seemed to me that I was hearing a voice of God.

~Salieri quote from Amadeus (1984)

Buttonholes indeed come last

I admit I had to learn the hard way... buttonholes should be done last.

You are wondering what exactly did I do?

First, although they are all in line, they are off center by just a tad. I goofed my placement. Enough that I know and care.

Second, I somehow messed up the plackets. I can't figure it out because the collar fit perfectly. I'm still racking my brain on this one. Inside the shirt I can see interfacing and it must be a huge mistake that I can't put my finger on. When I went to tack down the facing it was too short to cover the seam allowance. Why??

Maybe I need to make another shirt to figure it out because I am DONE working on this one, that's for sure.

I wouldn't have been able to complete this shirt without "Easy Guide to Sewing Blouses" by Connie Long. Excellent reference! I will use these instructions instead of pattern instructions from now on.

On another note, I hate my camera.

:(

Princess & a Tailor board

I received a Tailor board for Christmas and wasn't sure what I would use it on until today. It was the perfect tool to shape and mold curves. Love it!

Princess seams aren't so bad. M4922


I'm working on view A which has 3/4 sleeves and bias side panels. So far so good. Okay...so good that I changed up the order of construction and made the buttonholes now instead of waiting till then end.

Imagine getting all the way through a great looking shirt and ruining it with wonky buttonholes. What are they thinking by putting buttonholes as the LAST step. wow.

I have both the shirt and coat at the collar attachment stage so this should prove interesting!

Mohair everywhere

First project of 2007!

My inspiration piece retails for $595, Dale Dressin Angora Trapeze Topper. Spendy!

I have 1.75 yards of yummy mohair and this looks like a clean style to try and duplicate using Butterick 4865


I cut bemberg rayon lining out wider than the pattern pieces and figured out how to flat line. The mohair is so hairy and sheds everywhere! This technique was a good choice as it looks like a Hong Kong finish but it is actually underlined. Very cool.

Then I followed the instructions from "Inside a Chanel Jacket" by Susan Khalje (Threads 121) and hand-finished the lining seams. It is beautiful inside.

I am stuck on the hem so that's all for now. I am debating a chain weight but that is probably overkill. Don't know.

Pictures to come :)

Feel The Fear

I have been thinking long and hard about 2006 sewing accomplishments and
looking back at completed projects.

It strikes me that I only made a handful of pieces out of woven fabric in
2006. The bulk of my sewing utilized knits although I am happy to say I did
range from power dry to chenille. I have a wide variety of garments to show for it but perhaps I fear wovens?

I think most sewists learn wovens first.
Not me.
I am fearless with knits.
Plus I learned how to make my own undies and I've mastered the art of squeezing a top & matching undies out of 1.25 yards of onionskin.

That's ROCKIN'

Okay, so I'm a bit too proud of that LOL

2007 sewing goals include tackling underlining, lining, collars, plackets,
welt pockets and wovens. Tailored pieces. Challenging myself for sure.

I am going to switch up my style this year and pull together a better and
polished everyday look. Of course, working from my home office and running
around to soccer games doesn't warrant posh finery, but at least I'll be one Bad Mommy.

I am going to live 2007 by the HotPatterns motto,
"Feel The Fear & Do It Anyway..."

Yeah! I see many muslins in my future...

This is going to be a great year!